Wed, May 7 - Lukla to Kathmandu

It's 9:30AM, and I'm waiting in line to check in with Sita Airlines, one of the small regional carriers that operate only in Nepal. It has been cloudy this morning and although a few flights have made it in, they are running at least an hour behind yesterday's prediction. The check-in area has small counters around the perimeter which are dominated by large scales. With small planes (18 people), and a high altitude airstrip, they take weight seriously. Everyone is jostling, trying to get to the head of the line, despite the fact that checking in and getting on the plane are two totally unrelated activities and getting checked in quickly has no bearing on where you sit on the plane (open seating). The fighting, queuing and pent up frustration are legendary after a few days of bad whether when no flights come or go. It would likely make an interesting psychology PhD. Fortunately, flights have been reasonably regular over the past few days.

Our flight arrives and the 18 of us lined up on the tarmac, waiting for the signal to board the plane. Everyone, including (Especially!) the Sherpa guides who must make this flight hundreds of times over their lifetimes, have the objective of getting to the frontmost,right hand side seat, which affords the best view of the mountains (assuming the view is not obscured by clouds). I am no different but there are some really pushy people who work to the front of our little phlanx. However, I spot the signal from the flight attendant that now is the time and get a half step jump on everyone. I confess that it is quite satisfying to ace out the pushy people. They are still trying to worm into position ahead of me so I put a hand on the railing and a foot on the first step as we are being held now at the base of the stairs until the captain climbs in the front.

There is no mountain view, with cloud ceilings at 12,000 feet. We fly most of the way at 150 knots as the pilot clears mountain ridges by hundreds of feet. Definitely a bit closer than I would fly. The views looking down at the heavily terraced slopes are interesting, especially when the soil changes color.

I'm booked at the Kathmandu Garden House, a 20 room guest house at the north end of Thamel, the tourist enclave in Northern Kathmandu. It is recommended in Lonely Planet. It's great! at 400Rs a night, it's less than one third the price of the Tenki, the hotel booked by Unique Adventures for my initial two days in Kathmandu. As the name suggests, there is a beautiful outdoor garden with several tables for guests to relax or have meals. It is owned by a French couple, Yves (French) and Sagmita (Nepali). Yves was an executive chef in a previous life and came to Nepal to help set up the kitchen and initial menus for a large Kathmandu hotel.

Yves had no plans to stay but met his wife here and is happily married with two children. He is not allowed to officially work, but he does oversee much of the hotel's operation and has certainly had a big hand in the menu, which is very good. I've enjoyed talking with the other guests, most of whom are in their twenties, but there are a few oldies like me as well.

They have a roof terrace, like many hotels here, and I watch the sunset. The light is beautiful. I scan the neighboring buildings, some of which are hotels and some of which are private residences or appartment buildings. I feel like a distant observer, watching the world go by. I wonder whether Camus and other great authors have had some of their work inspired by similar observations. It reminds me of the Hitchcock movie staring Jimmie Stewart in which Stewart plays a recuperating photographer who sits in his appartment and watches the antics of all his neighbors.