Fri May 2 - Tengboche to Namche

Tengboche to namche

With my killer view, I quietly get out of bed at 4:30AM, open my window and watch the sun rise behind the biggest mountains on earth. How cool is that! The mountain silhouettes gradually change from being soft blobs on the horizon to hard etched lines delineating the boundary between earth and sky. At 5:30AM in became apparent that this position would limit me to seeing silhouettes and I was really interested to see the early golden sun shining off reflective mountains. I grab my camera stuff and traipse around the Tengboche area, looking for the best views. It's fun! This boy is definitely feeling much better than a couple days ago.

We start our trek down to Namche Bazaar at 7AM, first walking down through Rhododendron forest. The Rhododendrons have a secret agreement whereby all the trees in a vertical stripe down the mountain bloom at one time.

The plan calls for us to hike through Kumjung, which sits on the hill, 300 meters above Namche. I have had a hankering for salami and cheese on French bread. I have salami in my pack, given me by the trekking cook before he left, the restaurant has cheese, and I settle for Tibetan break, which is similar to a chapati, but thicker and fried in oil. I need something to wash all this down and order a jug of tchang. I intercept the owner as she is filling a LARGE jug of tchang and tell her that a small jug will be sufficient for me. I'm unable to get anyone else to share. Portuguide does not drink while Miguel and Naomi have heard so many horror stories about people drinking un-boiled water, that they refuse my offers of sharing.

I'm buzzed after 2 glasses, and there are about 4 more to go. Good time to go check out the Yeti scalp at the local monastery. It is kept in a locked cabnet and only opened for viewing after a suitable donation (200Rs suggested) is made. It looks like toupe. It was taken by Edmund Hillary years ago for scientific analysis and proven to be something other than Yeti (I think yak but I forget). No matter, it is cool to see something which I've read about for years.

We get to Namche about 2PM and it rains shortly after we check into the Camp de Base hotel. Miguel, Naomi and have dinner together and discuss the importance of travel, and how most people get locked into a way of life that is always reaching for something bigger and better (cars, house, boats, etc). They have consciously tried to avoid this trap and have purchased a modest house outside Lisbon. I explained my situation and how I jetisoned a huge amount of stuff after getting divorced (but I'm still a long way from the meagre belongings held by monks!)